Boris Bidjan Saberi
Interview by Samuel Willett
Photographs courtesy of Boris Bidjan Saberi & Samuel Willett
Actress – Maze
Since he can remember, Boris Bidjan Saberi has been drawn to the world of fabric and garment construction. He calls it his mission—one that he has accepted with nothing but rigor—and since 2006, has turned that mission into a successful fashion label. A continual evolution and refinement of his menswear vision is shown twice a year during the Paris menswear presentations.
A pioneer in modern-day artisanal construction techniques, he links a strong focus on fabric experimentation and invention, the dedication to which can be seen in the end result. Each garment possesses a strong sense of character, imbedded within it the intellect and antiquity of traditions over-taken by the grip of what could be described as fast food fashion.
This strength of character, mixed with his set of inspirations from the dynamics and specific rules of gang culture to the distinct appropriations within skateboarding, along with the intricacies of hip-hop, all coalesce to shape the narrative of his universe.
Most recently, Boris presented a more mature collection, an offering filled with refinement that was seen by some as a slight departure from his usual aesthetic. Citing strong influence from groups, communities and crew mentality, this season he labelled the mafia as the prevailing inspiration. We spoke to him about this recent progression, receive some insight into his body art, and discover a glimpse of what to expect in the future.
You’re amidst the final preparation before your Spring/Summer 2013 showing in Paris. How is it all coming together for you this season?
It’s a tornado of mixed feelings. I feel quite peaceful but also very excited. This collection means a lot to me because it’s different than the previous ones. It’s a new way, a new Boris Bidjan Saberi style, more mature and clean. I am really happy my followers understood my direction and about all the positive feedback.
Your Autumn/Winter 2012-2013 presentation was especially well-received. Considering this, how do you approach the creative process for the new collection and continually evolve your vision?
I never stop working. I am always looking for new techniques of work and new ways to express as close as possible my vision. I don’t think too much, actually. I just try and see what I like. From some mistakes can come amazing affects and new ideas…
Is there any particular part of the design process that you enjoy the most?
As I said before, I like experimenting with other ways of creations. I actually enjoy playing with garments and fabrics a lot…I enjoy it most when I am isolated in the factory and trying new treatments on the clothes, experimenting and inventing new types of textiles.
Many of your products are created using labour intensive artisanal techniques—is it hard to find a balance between the high-end standards of the label versus store deliveries and deadlines?
I guess it’s part of the deal. I am a perfectionist and give a lot of attention to details so of course it takes some time…
Read more in N˚4: Flight.